Home > Costume Jewelry / Bisutería > Costume Jewelry / Bisutería

Costume Jewelry / Bisutería

Costume Jewelry is called (French Bijouterie) to the industry producing ornamental objects or materials that mimic the jewelry but are made of non-precious materials.

Materials.-

In the costume jewelry very diverse materials typically used, since the porcelain to brass wires, passing the pulp or pearls. The objects made of metals or alloys usually have a coating of noble material such as gold, silver or rhodium. Depending on the quality of the coating an ornament of fine costume jewelry, like this, can be virtually indistinguishable from a gem, of course, for a non-expert. Precious metals are often very dense and therefore small pieces that are made with them are, for their size, quite heavy. A good substitute, at least in density, typically lead alloys. In pendant chains and usually used brass plated with gold layers of between 1 to 5 microns thick to prevent the formation of eczema or skin alterations caused by allergic reactions.

History of Costume Jewelry. –

The Costume jewelry has been part of culture for almost 300 years (other than jewelry dating from ancient times). During 1700 the costume jewelry is performed with glass and began receiving important, but it was not until almost a century later, in 1800 that the costume jewelry of semi-precious materials came in the market. The use of semi-precious materials in the manufacture gave access to the massification of costume jewelry.

But the real boom in costume jewelry began mid-twentieth century, during the industrial revolution, which could give the new middle class eager
owning beautiful jewelry in an economical way, the possibility of owning costume jewelry or jewelry.

The costume jewelry was made even more popular by the following:

• Several designers of mid-twentieth century, such as: Crown Trifari, Dior, Chanel, Monet, Napier, Corocraft, etc. Costume Jewelry performed as
accessories for their outfits.

• Major Hollywood stars of the ’40s and ’50s often wore costume jewelry designers produced promotional, which is then reproduced for sell in stores.

• Coco Chanel popularized the use heavily on the costume jewelry in her years as a fashion designer.

Many consider the high volume production made by machines from the Industrial Revolution has spoiled the beauty and uniqueness of the goldsmith , which is why many women turn to it (or handmade jewelry) to differentiate more, on the other hand, machines have made the costume jewelry much cheaper than the traditional, making massive for all age groups.

Today, there is a second major market, the “Vintage Fashion Jewelry” which are:

The pieces of costume jewelry, with designation of origin (which can prove their origin), it is that it can show its name
(Hence, who and when was made, the features it has, etc..).

This type of costume jewelery is in contrast to the costume jewelry that is sold in bulk in stores, usually from China or India, which make it impossible direct contact with the people who made them. This leads to considerable disputes, lack of regulations, ranging from the Human Rights or use of manufacturing processes in which small, but potentially harmful amounts of toxic metals are added during the production. One example is that in the U.S. scandal erupted when it was discovered during testing that cheap jewelry from China contained dangerous levels of cadmium metal.

Note: To complement this post, I leave a very interesting video about some Vintage Jewellery designers of the twentieth century.

Source:
Barbara Cartlidge, Les bijoux au XXe siècle, édition Payot, Paris, 1986, 239 p. (ISBN 2-228-00110-4), Claude Mazloum, Designer Jewellery. The word’s top artists, Rome, Gremese International, ISBN 88-7301-021-0, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Costume_jewelry—https://zophies.wordpress.com/

(español)

Se denomina Bisutería (del francés bijouterie) a la industria que produce objetos o materiales de adorno que imitan a la joyería pero que están hechos de materiales no preciosos.

Materiales.-

En la bisutería suele usarse materiales muy diversos, desde la porcelana hasta los alambres de latón, pasando por la pasta de papel o las perlas cultivadas. Los objetos confeccionados con metales o sus aleaciones suelen llevar un recubrimiento de material noble, como el oro, la plata, o el rodio. Dependiendo de la calidad del recubrimiento un adorno de bisutería fina, de este tipo, puede llegar a ser prácticamente indistinguible de una joya, lógicamente, para una persona no experta. Los metales preciosos suelen ser muy densos y por tanto las pequeñas piezas que se elaboran con ellos son, para su tamaño, bastante pesadas. Un buen sustituto, al menos en cuanto a densidad, suelen ser las aleaciones de plomo.En cadenas y colgantes se suele usar el latón chapado con capas de oro de entre 1 a 5 micras de grosor para evitar la formación de eccemas o alteraciones epidérmicas provocadas por reacciones de tipo alérgico.

Historia de la Bisutería .-

La bisutería ha sido parte de la cultura durante casi 300 años (distinto de la joyería que data de tiempos milenarios). Durante el 1700 la bisutería se realizaba con vidrio y comenzó a recibir importancia, pero no fue hasta casi un siglo después, en 1800 que la bisutería de materiales semi-preciosos entró en el mercado. El uso de materiales semi-preciosos en la fabricación dio acceso a la masificación de la bisutería.

Pero el verdadero auge de la bisutería comenzó a mediados del siglo XX, durante la revolución industrial, que pudo dar, a la nueva clase media deseosa de poseer hermosas joyas de un modo económico, la posibilidad de poseer joyas de fantasía o bisutería.

La bisutería se hizo aun más popular por lo siguiente:

•Varios diseñadores de mediados del siglo XX, como por ejemplo: Crown Trifari, Dior, Chanel, Monet, Napier, Corocraft, etc. realizaban bisutería como complementos para sus trajes.

•Las principales estrellas de Hollywood de los años 40 y 50 a menudo llevaban joyas promocionales producida por diseñadores, que luego se reproducían para venderlas en las tiendas.

•Coco Chanel popularizó el uso en gran medida de la bisutería en sus años como diseñadora de modas.

Muchos consideran que la producción en grandes cantidades realizadas por las máquinas a partir de la Revolución Industrial ha echado a perder la belleza y exclusividad de la orfebrería, por ello es que muchas mujeres se vuelcan a ésta (o a la Bisutería Artesanal) para diferenciarse más, por otro lado, las máquinas han hecho la bisutería mucho más económica que la artesanal, masificándola para todo público.

Hoy en día, existe un segundo mercado importante, la “Vintage Fashion Jewelry” que son:

Las piezas de bisutería, con denominación de origen (que se puede demostrar su procedencia), esto es que se pueda demostrar su denominación
(de donde viene, quién y cuándo se confeccionó, las características que tiene, etc.).

Este tipo de Bisutería está en contraposición de la bisutería que se vende a granel en las tiendas, generalmente procedente de china o India, que hacen imposible ponerse en contacto directo con las personas que lo fabricaron. Esto ocasiona considerables controversias, por la falta de regulaciones; que van desde los Derechos Humanos o la utilización de procesos de fabricación en las que los pequeños, pero potencialmente nocivas cantidades de Metales Tóxicos se agregan durante la producción. Ejemplo de ello es que en los Estados Unidos se desató un escándalo cuando se descubrió durante las pruebas que bisutería barata de China contenía niveles peligrosos de metal cadmio.

Nota: Para complementar este artículo, les dejo un video muy interesante acerca de algunos diseñadores de Bisutería Vintage del siglo XX.

Fuente:

Barbara Cartlidge, Les bijoux au XXe siècle, édition Payot, Paris, 1986, 239 p. (ISBN 2-228-00110-4), Claude Mazloum, Designer Jewellery. The word’s top artists, Rome, Gremese International, ISBN 88-7301-021-0, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Costume_jewelry—https://zophies.wordpress.com/

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